Homowo season brings the drums back to Accra, and the whole city eats kpokpoi

Homowo remembers a famine survived generations ago and translates roughly as "hooting at hunger". The season opens in May with the planting of crops and a thirty-day ban on drumming and noise-making across Ga traditional areas.

The ban lifts in August and the festival proper begins. Priests sprinkle kpokpoi, a steamed corn dish served with palm nut soup, along the streets for the ancestors. Families gather, twins are honoured in the Ga twins ceremony, and processions move through Ga Mashie, Osu, Teshie and Nungua on successive weekends.

Visitors are welcome at the public processions. Ask a local host or your operator which quarter celebrates on which weekend, as the dates differ between Ga towns.